Peaches in the summertime, apples in the fall
If I can’t have you all the time, I won’t have none at all
Mouldy lips aside, this couplet from Gillian Welch’s “Wayside/Back in Time“ elegantly distills for me a perennial tension. With the comings and goings of seasons and people I love, it’s sometimes difficult not to feel a twinge of longing. A shadow of the sulky covetousness of a 3-year old who wants everything all of the time.
I also like this line because it characterizes the mindset underpinning a food system designed to make available all pleasures at all times, regardless of seasonal and ecological constraints. That the insatiable pleasure-seeking of some is so closely tied to the unmet needs of many speaks, I think, to the troubles of founding parts of the food system on a logical framework that might be age-appropriate for a 3-year old.
On the other side of this tension lies a different flavour of pleasure; the sort of deep fondness and appreciation that can grow in an absence. I’m pinning my hopes on the prospect that after a few more seasons (and manymany more meditation sessions), I will ripen to a state of wise-old equanimity in which I can embrace comings and goings as different sides of the same thing.
Savoury artichoke-apple rustic tart
Serves four. Inspired by this non-vegan recipe on Balsamic Reductions. Referring to this tart as “rustic” is a handy euphemism for “messy looking, but pretty darn delicious,” at least in my case.
Filling – food processor
- 1 cup medium-firm tofu
- 3 cloves garlic
- 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
- 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
- Juice of 1 large lemon
- 1 tsp lemon zest
- 2 tsp combo of fresh rosemary, thyme and oregano, finely minced
- salt and pepper, to taste
- 1 packed cup kale leaves, finely chopped
- 1/2 red onion, chopped
- 2 large tart apples, unpeeled and cubed (I used Cox’s Orange Pippin as a fun treat. Granny Smith would also work. Rub slices with lemon if you’re concerned they will turn brown quickly)
- 1 cup Daiya dairy-free mozzarella shreds
- 1 400-mL can quartered artichokes, drained
- 1/2 cup hazelnuts, chopped
- 1/2 recipe of Moskowitz and Romero’s Vegan Buttery Double Crust
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Blend all food processor filling ingredients until smooth.
In a large bowl, stir together food processor filling ingredients with remaining filling ingredients.
Roll out the pie crust on a floured counter to 1/8-inch thick, and gently transfer to a well-greased rimmed cookie sheet (the rim can help to catch any leakages from the tart). Scoop the filling ingredients into a tall mound in the centre of the pastry, and gently fold the edges of the crust inward. If you are more patient than me, you can pleat the edges like so.
Bake for 45-60 minutes in the middle oven rack, being careful to avoid burning the crust or top of the tart.
Remove and allow to cool slightly. Serve with maple-sweetened balsamic onion jam, and maybe a glass of home-brewed cider.